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Panagia i Giatrissa, Thirasia

A church dedicated to the “physician of soul and body”

In the heart of the hamlet of Potamos stands the church of Panagia i Giatrissa, the spiritual refuge of Thirasia and a point of reference for all the island’s residents. The blue and white dome, visible from the sea, seems to gaze across at Santorini, whilst the sound of its bells echoes through the village’s narrow alleyways.
Visit the church early in the morning, when the light gently touches the houses and Santorini opposite seems to float in the mist. In the churchyard you will see stone inscriptions from the years of reconstruction and old marble candle holders, donations from the island’s sailors. The view from the belfry towards the volcano and Santorini is one of the most stunning in the Aegean.
The church was built in the late 1950s and is dedicated to the Panagia i Iatrissa (“the Physician”), meaning the “physician of soul and body”, as the people of Thirasia call her. Its interior is adorned with elaborate murals and a wood-carved iconostasis. According to local tradition, the icon of the Virgin Mary arrived on Thirasia from Monemvasia, travelling in the sea. When the residents retrieved it, they saw that the bottom part read “I Iatrissa” (“the Physician), and thus the place was named after the icon.
The church celebrates on 21 September, the Nativity of the Virgin Mary, with a festival that brings together people from Thirasia and Santorini. After the service, residents lay tables in the yard with fava bean purée, wine and honey-drizzled xerotigana (fried dough strips), while children run around the well. If you finds yourself on the island in September, do not miss it; it is an authentic celebration of island faith and joy.

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